Choosing a Guide/Coach/Instructor/Expedition leader

It is not an easy task to choose a  Guide, climbing coach, kayak coach, instructor or expedition leader especially in countries like the UK and USA where there is no law requiring a person to be officially trained or qualified to work. As a result, anyone can claim to be a competent Mountain Guide, kayak coach, climbing instructor or coach. Doctors, Pilots and other professionals responsible for our safety must be trained and tested so why not outdoor professionals? Most people who guide, coach and instruct in the UK and U.S. qualified or not are competent climbers or kayakers, but being a talented climber or kayaker is not enough. To properly teach and protect someone in a new environment often requires techniques different than those used by recreational climbers. It is therefore important that you ask some questions of the person taking you. What qualifications, training and experience do they have and do they have relevant insurance. That's not to say that a leader lacking formal qualifications won't do a good job especially when it is in areas where there is little formal training, such as coaching of rock climbing movement and expedition leading. You should however satisfy yourself that the person has the experience and ancillary training to give you correct information and find out whether they are breaking the law when working outside of their country.

 

Awards and Training in the UK and USA
There are two bodies within the UK and USA that administer a confusing number of awards and qualifications.

The British Association of Mountain Guides (UK) and the Association of Mountain Guides Associationa (USA) - Both are affliated to the  international Federation of Mountain Guides (IFMGA, which  is made up of the national Guiding Associations of 17 member countries. They train and assess Mountain Guides and all work to the same strict training syllabus and assessment standards, which are regularly monitored between nations.

The AMGA and the Mountain Training UK (MTUK) - set standards of training and assessment for instructor qualifications valid within the USA and the UK respectively.

The Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) - This ia the body that represents MIA and MIC holders (see below). It does not train and assess its members and not all MIC and MIA holders are members.

 

What do the awards mean for you?
International Guides Carnet (IFMGA Guide, used to be UIAGM) - This is the highest award in mountaineering and rock climbing. It is the only internationally recognised professional qualification. Members are some of the most experienced and talented climbers and mountaineers in the world. In their home countries qualified guides are members of their respective professional association that trains and assesses members and can discipline and remove the awards from their members. Becoming an IFMGA guide is a long and very difficult process with only a few people having the experience to apply. They are assessed in rock (E1), ice (grade 5), Alpinism and skiing. They are also trained in a wide range of professional topics including first aid and rescue training, sports physiology, coaching, the law, professional standards, environmental issues, mountain weather, snow science, avalanche forecasting, mountain history, flora and fauna.

The essential difference between the IFMGA carnet and other qualifications is the greater experience required to start the scheme, a higher climbing standard required and the broader range of areas covered. You can be assured that anyone holding this award is seriously passionate about climbing. IFMGA Mountain Guides are widely respected for their quality of work, attention to detail and client safety.
CWA - for supervising sessions in climbing walls, with an optional module for abseiling and climbing towers
SPA – A low level award intended for leaders supervising groups top roping and bottom roping on single pitch rock climbs on crags and indoor walls. Although individuals may be highly experienced climbers there is no way of knowing that simply from the award.
Walking Group Leader Award (WGL) - for leading groups in non-mountainous terrain (e.g. Dartmoor).
Mountain Leader Summer - Holders of this award are highly competent at leading walking trips in the UK in summer condition. It is not a climbing award.
Mountain Leader Winter - Holders of this award are highly competent for leading walking trips in the UK in winter conditions. It is not a climbing award.   
International mountain leader (IML) - for leading walking groups in Europe in all areas except on glaciers and where the techniques or materials of alpinism are required. The IML can also operate on easy snow covered terrain, including using snowshoes, providing it is of a gentle, Nordic type in the "middle" mountains. In such cases consecutive nights will not be spent out unless guardianed refuges are used.
Mountain Instructor Award (MIA) – This is the highest UK award for summer mountaineering and rock climbing.The holder is trained and assessed at leading up to VS multi pitch rock climbing, scrambling and hill walking in summer conditions. It is designed for the specific types of situations and conditions found in the UK.
Mountain Instructor Certificate (MIC) – The holder is trained and assessed as for MIA but is also trained and assessed at grade 3 for winter mountaineering and climbing. It is designed for the specific situations types of and conditions found in the UK.

 

AMGA awards
Top Rope Site Manager - prepares climbers to safely teach top rope climbing and to manage group climbing sites.
Rock Instructor - introduces aspirant guides to multi-pitch guiding skills on rock routes up to grade III in length and with relatively simple approaches and descents
Advanced Rock Guide further prepares and evaluates guides on difficult terrain above Grade III

 

Guiding in Europe and the Alps
Strict laws apply to professional guiding in the Alps - with only IFMGA guides being allowed to work legally in many countries including ice fall climbing and via ferratas. If your instructor is working illegally his insurance is likely to be invalid and so may yours!


Off Piste Skiing
As in climbing, only IFMGA guides are qualified to work off piste in glacial terrain in the Alps.  Some ski instructors are allowed to take groups off piste too - so long as no glaciers are involved, but definitely not the tour hosts and reps that commonly show skiers around the pisted runs within large resorts (check the insurance situation with anyone taking you out). Guides are trained to look after groups off piste and on glaciers and find the best snow for their clients: ie give you a great days skiing.  They are not trained as professional ski instructors so if you are after dedicated instruction then hire a professional ski instructor.